Crazy Bus Drivers and Apartment Renovation
The last several days have been a blur of activity. We successfully got into an apartment. A huge relief, since we were hours from living in cardboard boxes. Despite all the odds against me, and the number of people who said it couldn't be done, I broke record finding a place to live before Carnaval. It's not all roses, the toilet leaks, some lights don't work, and its filthy, but its home for the next year. The location is optimal. We are walking distance from everything we could possibly want. Additionally, I could throw a coconut from here and hit the beach. We are on the 2nd floor of a condominium complex with about 8 families and an older couple that lives in the "cobertura" or penthouse. There is a 24-hour door man that monitors the street and activity coming and going into the building. If someone wants to come to our apartment he gives us a ring for permission. Each of the buildings around here has a doorman and often a locked gate. On each side of the street are parking monitors. I believe it is the cities attempt to employ as many people as possible, but the parking monitors are people that help you park your car. You are expected to give them 2 reais for the service. They also keep people from stealing your car. As a good citizen, you are expected to leave your car in neutral so that they can roll the car forward or back and line the cars up bumper to bumper so they can fit more in. When it gets really full, they start parking the cars on the sidewalk. This is no big deal in city where everybody clearly understands that pedestrians have no rights. As they say, "the law of gross tonnage wins". In any case all the doormen, parking attendants, street sweepers, and corner newspaper stand men have worked these streets for years and it is a little bit of a neighborly eco-system on each avenue.
(fast forward 2 week) This apartment is fairly modern and has relatively new appliances. It is in the best shape by far, of any apartment that I have looked at. That being said, I have spent the better part of the last week supervising an army of workers trying to square this place away. Broken lights, toilets, stoves, water heaters and bare dangling wires from electrical sockets were the highlights, followed by painters, floor installers and cleaners. Quite a project really, complicated by the fact that during Carnaval and the immediate week after, nobody likes to work that hard and by that I mean not at all. I still have some cleanup items that I just couldn't get done before Kellee gets here, but I feel satisfied with the progress. Lori, my relocator, has been invaluable. I couldn't have done this with out her. She is on the phone daily cracking the whip, alternating between sweet talk, loud demands, and downright shaming the contractors into honoring the schedules they set.
The apartment is in the Leblon area which is just down the beach from the famous Ipanema Beach. Leblon is a little quieter. For those of you who know San Diego, it compares to La Jolla, while Ipanema would be PB. I like it a little better. I t is sort of a village here with 100's of bars, restaurants, and shops within a few blocks. All of them friendly and more than willing to serve us with a smile while sticking it to us with incredibly marked up prices. The Marines from the Marine Security Guard that protect the Consulate live in a house about 4 blocks away, which is a comforting factor, along with the alarm that is being installed that rings directly to Marine Post One at the consulate guard post.
While I have been down here by myself I have taken on the additional responsibility of sampling as much of the local eateries as possible and taste-testing all the local draft beer so that I can make good recommendations to Kellee when she arrives. I'ts been hard work, but I knew I could handle it. I have also been experimenting with the local buses. Generally, they are clean and secure, but I wouldn't say they are safe….at least they don't feel safe. The bus drivers here would all be arrested in the US. They careen around corners at high rates of speed, sometimes racing each other and then suddenly slamming on the brakes as the next bus stop appears. My last ride I actually saw the bus driver accelerate towards an unsuspecting herd of tourists caught midway in the crosswalk. They scattered like pigeons as 20,000 pounds of screeching bus barreled by. A further example of the sinister nature of the local bus drivers happened yesterday. I was in Centro on an expedition to find drawer handles that fit the furniture in my house; mine were rusted beyond repair by the staggering humidity. I had just left the Centro shopping district which I can only compare to the Gold Souk in Dubai or maybe Mos Eisely Spaceport for you Star Wars geeks. Imagine centuries old, narrow cobbled streets, a thousand shops all selling the same thing, and random smells that waft across your nose just often enough to remind you that a large part of Brazil remains entrenched in the third world. All this is set to the back ground of local music blasting from various shop speakers and taxis. I had just finished risking my life in the new Olympic sport of running across 12 lanes of hurtling bus traffic to reach the other side of the street like that fabled chicken. Once I reached safety I let my guard down….too much. I was standing on the curb waiting for a taxi and let my gaze wonder away. The next thing I saw was a bus mirror passing no more than two inches from my nose. The air blast hit me next and push me away to safety. My sense of shock was turned to anger as the driver accelerated away bathing me in a greasy coat of diesel exhaust. I couldn't be angry for long as I mulled the other possible outcomes. Lesson learned.
Kellee arrives on Friday and I can't wait to see her and Hannah. It's been too long and I have missed them both. We are all looking forward to this being a good tour to concentrate on being a family and spending lots of time together, recharging the batteries after years of running on the margin with the Marine Corps' schedule. Hopefully, my Portuguese will continue to improve at a steady rate. I am tired of not being fluent, and yet I have a ways to go. I can only imagine how godawful my Portuguese sounds. In my minds eye I am the stereotypical asian tourist in the B-movies with the horrible, heavy accident that is unwittingly about to be eaten by Godzilla or some other creature. Maybe I just sound like a Texan, who knows. Talk to you all soon. Ryan
